Manual for a Rock Climber

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Free Climbing : in which a climber climbs using his body only (besides the rope for safety).

Artificial Climbing : in which a climber relies on aids such as pitons, karabiners, etriers, etc.

2. FREE CLIMBING

Exterior Climbing : which is done on open rock features.

Interior Climbing : which is done in or using cracks, fissures or chimneys in the rocks.

3. EXTERIOR CLIMBING

                    Good climbing style incorporates following features:

Standing Upright : This keeps weight of a climber on his feet and is less tiring.

Standing away from rock : This avoids body or cloth in friction and allows a good view of holds above.

Hands to maintain balance : Hands are used mainly to keep body upright and should not be used to grip the rock tightly (except in certain positions) as it is very tiring. In this way one climbs mainly on feet, with hands maintaining balance in the upright position.

Nearby holds : Do not stretch out arms but use nearby holds.

Hands-below-shoulder and Heels-below-toes : With intermediate or nearby holds, hands remain below shoulder and heels below toes, which are restful positions.

Three point contact : The basic rule of climbing. Of the four limbs three should always be in contact with the rock. In other words, only one limb should be moved at a time.

Test hold : Test holds before using them.

Do not jump : to grab a promising looking hold.

Maintain rhythm : Do not make haste or linger for long

on the rocks, for in both cases you will tire unnecessarily. Develop your own speed and rhythm to suit your physique and stamina.

Adjust your position : When feet start shaking due to exhaustion or tension.

 

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Use toes or inside of the foot as far as possible. Do not place your foot too high on the rock. Vertical pressure holds or jamming techniques may be used whilst climbing cracks or chimneys.

(B) Hand Holds :

(i) Pinch Hold : on a small projection.

(ii) Over Hold : on a deep incut.

(iii) Undercut Hold : on an inverted deep incut.

(iv) Side Hold : on a vertical deep incut.

(v) Pressure Hold : on a rounded but rough surface.

(vi) Hand-Jam : inserting hand into a crack and wedging it or closing the fist inside so as to prevent it from coming out.

(vii) Lay-Back : this is a position in which hands grip the side of a narrow fissure and feet against the crack.

B) Care of Rope :

(i) Never step on it.

(ii) Do not hang it.

(iii) Store it in an airy, lighted place.

(iv) Do no damage it over sharp edges.

(v) One Nylon rope should not rub against another nylon rope since heat generated by friction damages it.

(vi) Wind it into (a) climbing coil or (b) rappelling coil.

(C) Rope-Knots:

(i) Timber Hitch : around a tree, for testing rope.

(ii) Thumb Knot : a basic knot.

(iii) Bowline : The most customary tying-on knot.

(iv) Middleman Knot : for climbers in the middle of a rope.

(v) Figure of 8 : For tying into a harness, anchoring, and joining two ropes.

(vi) Clove Hitch : Anchoring knot.

(vii) Prussic Knot : A rescue knot.

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(A) Roping-up:

3 men is the ideal number on a 100 ft. rope. 4 or 5 may be accommodated when climbing pitches are small. For 3 men make a V formation. For 4 men make an N formation. For 5 men make an M formation. The leader should check knots of teammates.

(B) Survey the Face :

Select the route and observe holds. Observe ledges for belaying positions.

(C) Climbing Order :

3 climbers named A, B & C

(Only one climber climbs at a time. At any ledge only two climbers stand at a time. )

(D) Belay Principles :

Make sure of your own secure position. Listen to the requests of the belayed person. Guiding and breaking hands to be used continuously. A middleman is belayed from both ends.

(E) Types of Belay :

(i) Static Belay: The fall is stopped by a fixed rope. Entire fall energy is absorbed by the climbing rope.

(ii) Dynamic Belay : The rope slips a certain distance over a braking element during a fall. Friction on the element absorbs of the fall energy.

(F) Belay Devices :

(i) Body Belays : Shoulder Belay : Outdated method.

Hip/Waist Belay : A dynamic method.

(ii) Mechanical Belays : Avoids possible dangers and mistakes of Body Belays.

(G) Pitch : The distance between two belays that a climber has to travel.

Simple faces may be climbed down facing outward, but not sitting on the rocks.

When angle is steep, face the rock, draw out body, observe footholds and climb down just as you climb up.

(B) Descent (Rappelling) :

(i) Shoulder Rappelling : (Rope and Gloves)

(ii) Sling Rappelling : (Sling, gloves, carabiner, rope)

(iii) Descendeur Rappelling : (Figure of 8 descendeur, carabiner, glovers, rope).

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8. INTERIOR CLIMBING :

(A) Wide Chimney : by bridging

(B) Medium Chimney : Back and foot friction.

(C) Narrow Chimney/Crack : Body jamming.

(A) Faces :

(i) Glascis : a rock face inclined at 30.

(ii) Slab : a rock face inclined approximately between 30 and 75.

(iii) Wall or Cliff : a rock face inclined at 75 - 90.

(iv) Overhang : a rock face inclined at more than 90.

(v) Ceiling or Roof : The underneath of a large over hang parallel to the ground.

(B) Fissures or Cracks :

(i) Crack : a fissure admitting arm or leg only.

(ii) Chimney : a fissure admitting human body.

(iii)Gulley/Nullah/Couloir : a very broad crack in the mountain forming a streambed.

(C) Open Rock Formations :

(i) Vee-Chimney

(ii) Corner

(iii) Flake

(D) Miscellaneous :

(i) Ridge : a line or curve where two opposing slopes meet.

(ii) Buttress : a rock outcrop jutting out from a mountainside with gulleys on both sides. A Broad ridge.

(iii) Tower : a summit with flat top.

(iv) Pinnacle (Aiguille) : a summit sharp top.

(v) Ledge : small platform on rock face.

(vi) Shelf : wide ledge.

(vii) Col/Saddle : a dip in a ridge usually between to peaks.

(viii) Pass : a way across a col.

(ix) Gendarme : a solitary rock outcrop on a ridge.

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(i) Hajimalang, Kalyan.

(ii) Kanheri Caves, Borivli.

(iii) Karnala, Near Panvel.

(iv) Mama Banja, Thane.

(v) Mumbra.

(vi) Peb, Neral.

(vii) Uttan Manori, Malad.

(viii) Mahalaxmi, Dahanu.

(ix) Chanderi, Vangani.

(x) Irshalgandh, Chowk.

1. Indian Mountaineering Foundation, :Head Quarters Complex, Benito Juarez Road, New Delhi - 110 021

2. Nehru Institute of Mountaineering :Uttarkashi, Uttar Pradesh - 239 193

3. Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Jawahar Parbat, Darjeeling, West Bengal

4. Institute Of Mountaineering and Allied Sports, Manali, Himachal Pradesh - 175 131

5. Gujarat Mountaineering Institute (only rock climbing), Mont Abu, Abu Road, Rajasthan

6. Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute, Gangtok, Sikkim

7. Institute of Mountaineering, Gulmarg, Jammu and Kashmir